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IMG class=hide alt=”Gucci goes ’60s, Armani and Fendi embrace fur in Milan” src=”http://www.mineralfossil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/wpid-07038a87db7cf7ef8714f234fd9c9144.jpg” (By Elisa Cecchi) (ANSA) – Milan, January 14 – The 1960s took on a soft pastel shade with pieces including pink coats and pants and ended on a black note at Gucci’s menswear 2014 fall-winter show in Milan on Monday. PRegardless of the colour, Frida Giannini’s mood board was inspired by a golden decade which first exalted youth as a value in fashion./PPAnd Gucci’s youthful vibe took centre stage in a palette embracing soft pink, baby blue, camel, brown and cream, all block colours and no prints./PPSilhouettes were essential with ultra-slim pants, neat coats and boxy sweatshirts./PPNarcissism and ambiguity were sparked by contrasts – the military-style caps similar to the trademark hat worn by ballet legend Rudolf Nureyev, the tight pants contrasting with the thick-soled shoes fastened with hip-buckled side closures, a hot trend in men’s and womenswear accessories. The Gucci trademark style oozed in the generous use of leather, even just as a detail on a pocket or for an elegant shirt./PPAnd different fabric combinations gave depth to the collection like a black velvet suit with leather lapels, a wool and neoprene jacket and shearling coats lined in nappa leather./PPIndeed fur is making a major comeback in menswear next winter with few labels showcasing their menswear collections in Milan this week resisting its animal attraction – be it real or faux./PPEmporio Armani showcased a multitude of pieces in faux fur including coats and waistcoats./PPArmani worked for a new contemporary classic style, not devoid of irony, with suits featuring pants brushing the ankle, slightly short jackets with three to four buttons and a waistcoat – a youthful look part dandy and part country gentleman. Bow ties replaced the traditional tie as the deacon of Italian fashion vied to please a clientele of 30-year-olds with an easy yet innovative style embracing a traditional palette with a surprising brownish-purple shade reminiscent of a colour widely used by Neapolitan tailors in the 1960s./PPThe fur note was also used in sweaters evoking astrakhan, stoles and jackets./PPAnd fur virtuoso Fendi challenged the idea that fashion is something essentially built on fabric./PPThe workmanship and innovative colour palette showcased in Milan included a leather coat lined in black and white as well as a marmot fur coat in blue and brown./PPExotic leathers were also used in accessories with the house’s it-bag, the iconic Peekabo, in a large version for men lined in crocodile./PPA nappa leather jacket was finely worked to look like croc, a reversible black cashmere coat lined in astrakhan./PPNo matter the fur type or its shade, Fendi’s haute luxury peaked through the lining of a coat or in reversible pieces – something preciously intimate to be shown exclusively at the user’s pleasure./P
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